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THE SAN PEDRO RIVER: its TRIBUTARIES and RELATED LAND FORMS, its ECOLOGIES and FUTURE PROSPECTS: AN INTRODUCTORY IMAGE TOUR ................................................... The San Pedro River begins in Mexico (not far from the city of Cananea in northern Sonora) and ends at its confluence with the Gila River near Winkelman, Arizona. (For initial map orientation, see this link: San Pedro River Maps.) The Nature Conservancy has designated the entire river and its watersheds (totaling some 1,370 square miles) as one of the earth's "Last Great Places", and they provide the grounds for this description in this link. Such a place deserves to be conserved, and our intention here is to enable everyone interested in it to see images and to find more detailed descriptions of its history, its nature, and its potential futures. Our region has changed greatly over time, and we will make brief references to its geology as well as history, and to its now-reigning (as well as then-reigning) flora and fauna. To begin: bear in mind that the San Pedro Valley is geologically a great trough, a rift valley, resulting from the extensional southeast-to-northwest block-faulting of the earth's crust, looking crudely like this in an east-west cross-section:
This rifting was part of the Basin-Range Faulting process (described on our geology page to be found at that link). Actually, the picture is considerably more complex than shown above -- riftings were multiple (as one of our experts said, "these things occurred one earthquake at a time, over thousands of years"). Witness the diagram below (adapted from the 2006 USGS Report FS 2006-3034 by Thomas Blakemore, "Hydrogeologic investigation of the Middle San Pedro Watershed, Southeastern Arizona", see this link):
The San Pedro basin is a very deep trough, now filled in many places with sediments up to two thousand feet deep, and its watertable includes not only the recent flows of the river but also ancient, deeper waters. Geologically, a series of fault-block episodes occurred, as the valley was incrementally enlarged, become deeper and, even as this trough was dropping, it was filled with erosion deposits from the fault-block mountains (which rose as "horsts" while the trough or "graben" dropped). (See our Geology pages for wide-ranging discussion.) Our point here is that what we see today as we go along the long course of today's valley are flanking ranges of bedrock mountains located mostly well back from the riverbed on both sides, their long axes roughly parallel to the trough and their strata usually tilted away from the river, and very long "bajadas", or alluvial fans, that run out from the mountains toward the river. Today these bajadas form high terraces near the river, which has downcut through them during the past several million years. The floodplain itself contains waters that drain from the numerous mountain ranges. Current and recent flows sustain a shallow, relatively narrow flood-plain aquifer while a "regional" aquifer extends throughout the basin fill. Note in the diagram above the presence of silt and clay deposits -- these reflect the former presence of lakebeds as the system developed, and they affect current water distributions as well. Below: the San Pedro River in flood, August 2005.
In some places the river basin is quite wide, in others very narrow. In what follows we begin with southern (upstream) portions, and proceed in a tour to northern (downstream) portions. The Arizona Department of Water Resources (ADWR) and the United States Geological Service (USGS) designate three distinct Areas: The Upper San Pedro (from its source in Mexico to the Tombstone Gaging Station, including the "Sierra Vista Subarea"), the Middle San Pedro (including the Benson Sub-area, from the Tombstone Station to the Narrows, and the Redington Sub-area, from the Narrows to the Redington Bridge Gaging Station), and the Lower San Pedro (from Redington Bridge to the confluence with the Gila River. (See this link: Thomas Blakemore. For map reference, click on this Link.) Our main focus will be on the Middle San Pedro, which is the area with which we are most deeply involved, and we will not discuss the Lower San Pedro, but it's important to remember that the entire area is one watershed. Below: looking southeast toward the Mule Mountains from near Fairbank, Arizona: gallery forest of the Babocomari Stream drainage in the foreground, running from lower right to middle-left; San Pedro River Cottonwoods in the farther distance, both rivers running from right to left. (July 2002) (Click on the image to enlarge it) Below left: the San Pedro River floodplain photographed (looking north) in July 2002 at the terrace site of the ruins of Santa Cruz de Terrenate, the Spanish Fort built in 1775. See that link for a brief history of this substantial, high-walled enclosure (complete with both a chapel and a triangular bastion for cannon emplacements), which the Spaniards founded as a permanent base for subduing roving predatory Apache bands. Instead, the Apaches routed them using guerrilla tactics without loss to themselves, forcing the Spaniards to abandon the entire post after only 4 years. (Note the railway in the foreground, which dates from the 1880s mining era., and The river floodplain a short distance beyond it.) (Click on each image to enlarge it.) While the entire stretch of the river contains numerous historical and archaeological sites, this southern portion is internationally known for its Paleoindian sites dating to the end of the Pleistocene Epoch. See Clovis for some further details. The plants and animals living here during late Pleistocene times were very different from today, as evidenced by this image:
(Image adapted from Steadman, DW and Martin, PS, "Extinction of Birds in the Late Pleistocene of North America" In Quaternary Extinctions: A Prehistoric Revolution, Martin PS and Klein RG. editors, Univ of Arizona press, Tucson, 1984.] For a general outline of the archaeological history of the river, see Archaeology of the San Pedro Valley. This upper (southern) part of the river was designated The San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area in 1988. This area straddles the northern end of the Sierra Vista Subarea and the southern end of the Benson Subarea. The western bajadas of the San Pedro River south of Benson stream out of the Whetstone Mountains in long straight lines of alluvium (see image below, lower-central to left). This photo also nicely shows the tilted fault-block shape of these Basin-range mountains: The view above is from Kartchner Caverns State Park, looking from the bajada toward the southwest, where the escarpment tilts down from its apex, toward the west. (Click on the image above for a close-up of the tilted formations.) An informative video presentation of the geological and hydrological history of this part of the San Pedro River Valley may be viewed at this link: Kartchner Caverns Hydrology. Below: the "pink cliffs" surrounding Benson (here, viewed from the west-side terrace, looking east across the San Pedro River floodplain, with the Little Dragoon Mountains in the background; October 2002). These pink cliffs are sedimentary remains of the St.David Basin Lake of Pliocene times: (before the Gila River captured the San Pedro Valley basins, which had previously contained several interior-basin lakes): (Click on image below for a closeup view of these St. David Basin formations) The sediments originally deposited in this extensive lakebed (see the cross-section dispayed in the USGS diagram above) consist of as much as 900 feet of clays, silts, and freshwater limestone, and they tend to confine the vertical movement of ground water in the basin, creating aquifer conditions that sustain the distinctively "artesian" wells found near the town of St. David. (See Thomas Blakemore, cited in Geology Credits.) North of Benson, the most common way to proceed downriver (northward) is to go to the southside of the town and take the Pomerene Road, which crosses under the I-10 Freeway. From there it is five miles to the settlement of Pomerene. Motorists Beware: Cochise County appears to police this roadway very precisely, especially inside Pomerene proper. Follow all speed limits, and be sure to come to a very complete stop at the hamlet's lonely (and usually uncontested) 4-way Stop Sign, or you may find yourself pulled over and ticketed, as was this unfortunate soul below:
The basin fill around Pomerene also contains clay deposits from the ancient lake, and so artesian wells are found here too, and these are much used by local farmers, some of whom are descendants of the Mormon Battalion. This branch of the Iowa infantry, mustered in 1846 during the Mexican War, marched up the San Pedro River on their way toward Tucson (then part of Mexico). Near the Benson Narrows (see below), they were accosted by a herd of stampeding wild cattle, with the reported result of ten to fifteen bulls killed, two mules gored to death, and three men wounded. (see "The Battle of the Bulls"). While the River flows in roughly a north-northwestwardly direction out of Benson, North of Pomerene the road turns northeastward and rises out of the floodplain, past flat sedimentary layers of the St. David Lake Formation, where at the top of the highest terrace nearly 5 miles out of Pomerene it turns northwestward into a very large road cut. Below: In one of the two freeway-like road cuts that bracket a very substantial bridge placed across Tres Alamos Wash, you can see a closeup example of the old St. David Lakebeds (between milepost 4 & 5): (Click on the image below for a closeup.) Below: Tres Alamos Wash (North of Benson), viewed from a point close to the "Grand Bridge" of Cascabel Road near milepost 5, looking West towards the River confluence (July 2002): In the image above, the very broad floodplain of Tres Alamos Wash runs from near lower-right to mid-left of the photo, then bends sharply rightward against the terrace which slants across the photo from above-mid-left to the upper center of our view. (This terrace formation also dates from the time of the St. David Formation Lake of the Pliocene period). At the far end of the terrace, you can see a short horizontal strip of pale green, marking irrigated farmlands located on the San Pedro River floodplain. (A Hohokam ruin with a ball court is located near this confluence.) Click on the image above for a better view of the terrace-and-confluence area. Behind the floodplain rise a line of comparable terraces flanking the far side of the River, then the Little Rincon Mountains, and behind them, Rincon Peak. Just upstream from and out of view to the left of the terrace formation just discussed, the Ash Creek runs into the San Pedro from its source in Rincon Peak (at the top center horizon in the photo), while a short distance downstream from the irrigated farmlands the River begins its bend in a northeastward direction. These two converging washes point to a typical feature of the entire valley from this location northward: essentially, the whole area is a criss-cross of wildlife corridors - routes by which plant and animal species may move from one "sky-island" mountain range and its foothills to another, thus maintaining numbers and genetic diversity. Topo maps we present below will illustrate only a few of these corridors, which are multiple and connect both the Catalina and the Rincon Mountains on the west to both the Galiuro and the Winchester Mountains on the east. A number of these washes contain springs, permanent streams in their upper reaches, including populations of fish, and bears purposefully walk down some of these washes, following pools of water on their way to the River and beyond. Population pressures in one area may stimulate species recoveries in another. This map below shows how the Cascabel Road (toward the right of the image) bisects the Tres Alamos Wash. Note the unusually arrow-straight line of the road along this stretch. At the far left of the map you can make out the Ocotillo Road, which extends north from Benson along the West side of the River.
In the late 1980s, the Cascabel Road was a dirt road where it crossed the Tres Alamos Wash, but incongruously it contained these very large road cuts shown below, associated with the large and rather expensive bridge which had been built across the Tres Alamos Wash. These images show, at left, a view of the bridge, the arrow-straight road and the two grand cuts taken from the north; at center, the southermost cut viewed from the south end of the construction zone (the existing Cascabel Road enters the cut from the middle-left of the photo, turning sharply into the cut as you go north); at right, a view from the north looking toward the projected road's southern direction, which until recently had a sign proclaiming "Road Closed" (now only a remnant remains). (Photos taken in March 2004.) (Click on each image to enlarge it.) Since beyond this sign toward the south the land drops away abruptly in a series of deep ravines running perpendicular to the apparent target of the road -- U.S. Highway I-10 some 7 miles to the south -- the prospect of building a road further in that direction would seem very daunting indeed (not to mention that of cutting similar gashes through the various lands further north). One story (not confirmed) relates that in the late 1970s some members of the Arizona Department of Transportation Board pushed this project through (as State Road 76), aiming to provide a route from I-10 to Phoenix which would bypass Tucson, but the effort ended after three substantial bridges had been built and some Right-of-Ways had been purchased. The project apparently foundered in conflicts over funding and with recognition of the ruinous costs that would be incurred for its completion. (Some topo maps indicate the projected direction of a road extension to I-10 running in a straight line toward the south-southeast.) In any case, we owe the present relative wildness of the Cascabel portion of the San Pedro River Basin to the fact that the project was not completed at that time, since a road of this investment caliber would surely have been paved, and Cascabel by now would be a bedroom suburb of Tucson (not to mention being drastically transformed from a wildlife point of view). Like Frankenstein, versions of the plan refuse to die; for the latest, see ADOT. Beyond these cuts, the road turns north-north-westward as you go downstream and drop down toward the River.
The old terrace flanking the Tres Alamos Wash at this location displays a fine array of plants typical of the Chihuahuan Desert Ecoregion. Yucca Elata (at left) are very prominent here, and they may be seen all the way downriver to Cascabel (though at that location they become limited to the river floodplain and near vicinity, while Yucca Baccata replaces them in the uplands). Yucca species and their relatives are important indicators of eological conditions as well as valuable plants in their own right; for more on the subject, see The Agaves and Nolinas. (For a broader reference guide to the vegetation of the area, see San Pedro Valley Flora: Today; for a comparison in deeper time perspective, see San Pedro Valley Flora: in the Pleistocene. In March 2005, the gray hills of the Little Rincons foothills which approach the River at this point, below, were covered with Spring Poppy blooms. (Click on the image to enlarge it)
A newcomer to the area may sense the diversity of wildflowers in our area by consulting the following link: Wildflowers. Below: see the Narrows -- or the "Benson Narrows", to distinguish it from the Narrows further downstream near Redington (see further below, the "Redington Narrows"). This Narrows (note the distinct rock-outcrop "edges" at both left and right) marks a geological (and hydrological) boundary between the upstream portion of the River and the part located further downstream. These two images are from August 2002 (left) and January 2005 (right), both looking downstream through the Narrows from viewpoints just east of the Cascabel Road. In both images, Bassett Peak of the Galiuro Mountains is framed in the distant background --near the center horizon in the left image, and well to the right in the right image. In the left-hand view, taken from further upstream, Sierra Blanca is just visible in reddish brown behind the left edge of the Narrows, while in the right-hand view the image is pointed in a more northerly direction and is taken from a slightly higher hill. Click on each image for a closer view of the Narrows gap and the valley-&-Sky Island country beyond: Below, a view of the Narrows from the downstream side looking toward the southwest. (May 2007)
Note in the image above the distinctly riparian tree in the lower left, standing out among a stand of mesquite trees. From this point northward, we enter the Redington Sub-area of the Middle San Pedro Watershed. (See map.) Over a four-mile stretch of the River straddling the Narrows, the riverbed drops about 40 feet, a hydrological change where deep valley fill upstream encounters this bedrock outcrop that forces water to the surface. Early 19th-century explorers reported that below the gorge at this point, the then-perennial stream spread out widely over the lower floodplain, forming sporadically extensive swamps running all the way past Cascabel and containing beaver dams and large fish. For more on the history of this area's hydrology, see Cienegas. From the Narrows northward to Redington, the aquifer is narrower and thinner than that to the south, and for most of the area it lacks the clay beds that confine the groundwater (though in several locations water still rises to the surface). Below, a map of the Narrows showing its location relative to the Cascabel Road. The rock formations that straddle the Narrows are ancient (structurally similar to those of the Johnny Lyon Hills, see below), but those bounding the roadway are much more recent, lakebed formations connected with the Pliocene St. David Formation further south.
Below: the visually striking Johnny Lyon Hills rise above the San Pedro east of where it runs through the Narrows. These formations (which extend to the Narrows) are composed of the geologically oldest rocks in our area, uplifted granodiorate formations that are 1.65 Billion years old (see Age of the Earth). The image at left was taken in January 1999 from the west side of the River, the one on the right in March 2005 from the 3-links Road well to the east of the River. (Click on each image for enlarged views.) (Long-time
Cascabel resident Barbara Clark has heard a story that these hills were named
after an early mining Below: Fremont Cottonwood/Goodding Willow Gallery Forest marks the zig-zag San Pedro River channel near the 3-Links Farm near Milepost 13 (October 2002): (Click on the image to enlarge it) Today, the entire river basin contains long strips of this Cottonwood/Willow riparian gallery forest, which is one of less than 20 such riparian zones in the world. This forest sustains a highly diverse wildlife, including large numbers of migratory birds and a variety of vegetation forms. For a quick take on our birds, see this link: Birds; for a description of the typical riparian vegetation of this zone, click again on San Pedro Valley Flora Today, and scroll down to (4) Streamways. Below: at the 3-Links Farm, the river becomes a perennial flow for a considerable stretch (cattle have been fenced off the immediate floodplain here for many years). When this picture was taken in February 2003, Dace were spawning in the streambed. Here we're looking upstream. (Click on the image for a close-up from the right bank.) (Close-up taken in April 2005) Recently, The Nature Conservancy bought this 3-Links part of the River, and ceased the agricultural pumping of river water (formerly done to grow alfalfa), and over several years the perennial stream has expanded more than a mile in length (though this varies depending on drought intensity). For more on the fish of one tributary in our area, see Saguaro Juniper Fish. For more information and images showing the biological richness of the River along this 3-links stretch, see this link: The Nature Conservancy 3-Links Tour, April 2005. Near Milepost 16, a series of hanging Quiburis-era terraces flank the west bank of the River:
The surfaces of most of these terraces above the river are dominated by a major shrub of our three North American deserts: Creosotebush -- see this link for details on this very important plant. Below, near Kelsey Wash at Milepost 17, a much older series of pale misty-rose-colored vertical cliffs also flank the River. Judging from the geology map in Dickinson 1991, the more vertical cliffs to the left are probably a Paleozoic marine formation, while the more conical cliffs on the right are probably Paige [San Manuel] Formation. (Click on the image for a close-up view.) Below, looking down on the same cliffs (at lower right) from the Pool Wash Ridge Road near Sierra Blanca, a vantage point about 600 feet in altitude above the River. The Paleozoic marine formation (?) stands out prominently at lower middle-right, while the Three Links Farm flats are the green area at far middle-left of the photo. (Huachuca Mountains at far upper left toward the south, Whetstones the dark blue mountains at right-middle.)
Teran Wash drains a large basin lying eastward and southeastward from milepost 20. The extensive Teran-Kelsey Escarpment bounds this basin on the southeast side:
Like the other portions of the West Range of the Galiuro Mountains bounding the San Pedro River in this area, the Teran-Kelsey Escarpment shows strong block-fault tilting away from the River Valley. For more detailed views of this piece of the Galiuros, see this link: Teran-Kelsey Escarpment, and for geological context see Geology Walk: 3) Basin-Range Faulting. Many washes that cross the Cascabel Road present serious danger to traffic during and after rainstorms. Below, after a storm in late July 2005, Kelsey Wash runs moderately. In this example, careful examination indicated the Wash was safe to cross for the high-centered, 4wd vehicle parked here. However, the Kelsey Wash is notorious for carrying down substantial boulders when it runs more strongly than this, and becomes too dangerous to cross. Usually the strong pulses are fairly brief. (For the likely old-historical significance of Kelsey Wash, see An Ancient Native American Trail.)
Along many parts of the River basin in our area, severe downcutting of the river's channel has occurred, a process which accelerated along the river during and after the 1890s drought (see discussion of this process in San Pedro Changes). For example, a difference from the early years of this century has been noticeable near the Teran Wash confluence, where one side of a downcut channel is shown below: (in July of 2006)
The channel here is about 20 feet deep, with the old pre-20th century floodplain (with its mesquite bosque) at the top of the embankment. Below, a March 2007 view from the edge of the mesquite bosque looking down into the River at this point:
Note the precariously situated mesquite tree at left-center of the photo. Below, vivid evidence of the continuous loss of this bosque to riverbank erosion:
Long-term resident Barbara Clark has old maps of the Teran Wash confluence from early in the 20th century, showing that Teran Wash apparently entered the River at the grade of the bosque at that time, so this marks a very considerable recent change. Some 6 miles further downstream from this point, however, perennial stream does reappear in places, and there the riverbed is not so channelized. Entrenchment is a prominent but not continuous feature of the River in our area. For a wide-ranging discussion of changes in the vegetation of this area, see Changing Sonoran Desert Vegetation. Below, Teran Wash is marked by the 4-WD grazing-lease road running from upper-right to left-center of the map. As you can see, it is a wide wash, and formerly created a quite substantial delta prior to its down-cutting near the confluence. It serves as an important corridor for wildlife in our area.
Below: near the Teran Wash-confluence location, but from across the wash and further upstream, a view of the river in strong flood, August 2005:
Visitors who want to walk along this river wash should be aware of the weather conditions concerning rainfall for the day prior to the time they choose to do so. For example, on the morning of July 27, 2006, at 7:30 AM we walked down to the banks of the San Pedro River Wash near the Teran Wash confluence, to see the situation shown below left -- the Wash had run quite high recently, and the ground was very muddy, but there was no running water. The pool at middle right in the left-hand photo was standing water, in which two children rushed out to play, getting thoroughly covered with very sticky mud. However, we knew it had rained during the night, including around our location, so we had consulted the Saguaro Juniper website Weather & Climate page, going to "Quick Weather References: Our Current Weather Conditions", then scrolling down to the link which says "San Pedro River Current Flow near Redington, Benson, Charleston, or Palominas" and looked at the map showing current river flow at all of the sites upstream from us. We could see that a substantial flood pulse had begun at Palominas about 3 AM, and at Charleston a very substantial pulse rising up at about 2 AM. Benson showed nothing at 7 AM, but still we looked upstream a bit anxiously as we stood at the river bank while the children played in the mud for a few minutes. When we later returned to a point near the same location at about 11:30 AM, we could hear the sound of the River from a considerable distance away, and when we reached the lower bank took the photograph below right at 11:47 AM. (Click on each image for enlarged views.) The picture above right was taken near the Tamarisk Tree which is visible on the left in the image above left. While this was only a moderate flow of the River, it was running very fast in the main channel, with numerous mesquite logs and even tree-trunks being carried downstream, the rushing water probably about 10 feet deep at the central part. Note the dark material flowing in the more slow-running side-stream near the viewer at right -- this is transported organic duff, also coming from mesquite bosques being downcut along the banks upstream. When really strong floods hit this location, the water may reach some 20 feet in depth. It's worth emphasizing the special danger of this river during the summer Monsoons, since anyone caught standing in the wash-bottom by a flash-flood of any size would probably be killed. See below an example of a very large animal, photographed at this same location after a similar flood occurred earlier in the month: (Click on the image to enlarge it.) Below, at the same location but up on the old floodplain, the mesquite bosque was carpeted with London Rocket (an exotic species) in March of 2005, following good spring rains:
At some points along the River in this area, some geologic facies of the San Manuel Formation rise behind the bosque on the West side of the River, occasionally forming erosional flumes of striking beauty. Below: just upstream from the confluence of Paige Wash with the San Pedro, some remarkable gray sedimentary hills (these terrace formations are of Quiburis age -- 7.5 to 5.5 Million Years old) erode down toward the river in many fingers: These rapidly-eroding "badlands" provide many a cleft/flume refuge for nesting birds of various kinds. (Click on the above image for a close-up view.) Below: Lower Hot Springs Canyon Wash and its mesquite bosque, running westward (lower left to middle-right) toward its confluence with the San Pedro in the middle distance: (July 2002) (click on image below to enlarge) Mesquite trees are very important in the historical ecology of this area.For more information on the importance of this tree both in the past and as an emergent food source today, click on mesquite. Below: Confluence of Hot Springs Canyon Wash (foreground gallery forest) with the San Pedro River (the River wash cut can be seen at right central) and Paige Wash (just visible beyond the left-central ridge terrace at dead center in the photo) -- Rincon Peak in the right background, Little Rincons dominate the mid-distance: (May 2002) Almost all of the greenery seen in the distance (except for the gallery forest along the cut of the river) is mesquite bosque. (Click on image below to enlarge.) In the map below, Hot Springs Canyon drops into the San Pedro River where the right-hand "Cascabel" logo is. (The road trail shown running northward beside it, incidently, no longer exists.) The Paige Canyon Wash enters the River just downstream from it, coming from the south in the lower left quadrant of the map. Pool Wash enters the River about a mile further upstream.
This again is a major corridor for the movement of wildlife in our area. See this link for more details on Hot Springs Canyon. In this vicinity, The slopes above the river mark an ecoregion boundary where the vegetation changes. While the more southerly portion of the valley uplands is generally considered part of the Chihuahuan Desert, by the time we reach Cascabel the vegetation becomes dominated by Sonoran Desert plants. (See that link) Below, a view of the north-facing slope of lower Hot Springs Canyon (taken from the opposite terrace in January 2005: (Click on the image for a closer view.) All of the obviously upright, highlighted plants evident here on this slope are Saguaro Cacti, the diagnostic plants of the Sonoran Desert. See The Arizona Uplands on the most characteristic features of our immediate area, and see Saguaros for details on the significance of this dominant plant in our ecosystem. And for a more extended discussion of Ecoregions, see Ecoregions in Our Area.) At this location, the volcanic fault-block-tilted escarpment of the Galiuro Mountains parallels the San Pedro Valley along its eastern side: (see the link for many more images and maps of this, the wildest range in southeastern Arizona)
Where the Cascabel Road crosses the Hot Springs Canyon, below, the substantial rains of July 2006 produced a heavy stream flow photographed here by Susan Newman on July 29, looking southward. Although the roadway has a belt of concrete surfacing that runs from side to side to stabilize the crossing at this very large Wash, these vehicles are prudently waiting for the pulse to decline further. The strip of rocky alluvium sitting across the roadway shows that the previous flow was much stronger than what you see here. (Click on the image for a closer view.) The notes of caution stated above were not idle comments. On the night of August 07, 2006, a pickup truck pulling a trailer full of hay sped southward on Cascabel Road past the houses at Helfrich's ranch and tried to cross the Hot Springs Canyon Wash. Although no rain had fallen along the roadway that day, a very heavy downpour had occurred earlier in the evening far upstream near the Muleshoe Preserve , and the Wash was now running in a strong flood across the road. The truck's trailer was pulled downstream off the concrete by the water and the truck, dragged after it, stopped with only one truck wheel remaining on the track while the waters roared around it. One of the riders fell out immediately into the flow, while the other stood on a strawbale in the trailer. Drivers stopped at the scene saw the situation and tried to throw the man a rope, but he lost his balance and was also swept away. One body was recovered a short distance downstream and the other well downstream along the San Pedro Riverbank. Sue Newman, who lives nearby and made the 911 call that brought the police, reports that after the flood subsided the officers found that the vehicle's engine was still running, so had the two men stayed inside it they would have been saved. In November 2006 this memorial shrine could be seen on the northwest side of the Wash crossing (looking north). (Click on the image for a closer view.) (Note that the 1984 photo shown a bit further below was taken from the embankment on which the shrine stands.) In February 2007 another memorial was located a short distance further north (downstream): (Click on the image for a closer view.) From this location at the roadside, the view of Lower Hot Springs Canyon Wash shows its dimensions where it runs to its confluence with the San Pedro River (the light-colored horizontal strip at the center of the photo), below:
The most recent of the really large floods that have produced this wide floodplain date from 1983, 1991, and 1993. Aerial photographs show where the stream carved out a massive "U"-shaped cut during these floods:
In this aerial photograph (taken in 1996), the Cascabel Road is shown as a series of white dots across the upper part of the frame, running from east to west (right to left). The black arrows show the the flow pattern that produced this large horseshoe of erosion, the latest of which threatened the substantial residence shown as a whitish rectangle in the center of the photo. We have recently obtained a copy of a photo dated to a flood at the road-wash confluence said to have occurred in 1984, shown below. The view is toward the southeast. (Max Taylor, a long-time ranch owner in Cascabel, stands at near left.)
Note the red Pipeline worker transportation bus caught in the flood at the left with its front end angled downstream, and the apparent depth of the waters along the near bank. (Note also that the flood had previously been much larger, the edge of the flow extending out beyond the location of the semitrailer truck parked at the far side of the road.) The bank stabilization with tires and chain link shown at lower right was part of a project done by local volunteers and the County after the 1983 floods rearranged the wash. (It is almost invisible today.) (Thanks to Barbara Clark for this information.) This scene occurred long before the roadway here was given a concrete flooring, but the point is that Hot Springs Canyon produces floods of widely-ranging power, and the one of August 07, 2006 was of very modest size historically speaking. (Our records from the Elliott Weatherstation located along the river, a few miles north of the Canyon show that the month of July 2004 registered a rainfall total of 4.65 inches, so one may infer that the flood occurred during a large storm during this month. [See Climatological Data 1983, for Harold Elliott's first recorded summary.) However, since our summer storms tend to be highly localized, the flood could have as well occurred during a time when no rain whatever fell in the Cascabel area. See for comparison, Harold's Climatological Data 2006 -- note that in this instance the most intense rainfall fell during July, much less in August. But more detailed reports from local people indicated that very heavy rains fell in a quite limited area near the Muleshoe Preserve during this time. The MuleshoePreserve is located near the largest watershed of the Hot Springs Canyon drainage.] Thanks to Lynn Smith-Lovin's flight reporting in our area, we have this aerial view of the San Pedro River near its triple confluence with Hot Springs Canyon and Paige Wash, taken on August 25, 2006: The image above looks downstream toward the northwest from a point just below the triple confluence. By that time the river flow had receded well below its recent maximum, the extent of which nonetheless remains evident. Click on the image for a close-up, which shows more clearly how the stronger flood previously struck hard against the left bank of the Wash (far left of the close-up), then rebounded across to the right, overflowing the right bank and spreading out beyond the normal banks on its run downstream (far right of the close-up). You can see that the ground is still damp on both sides of the current flow. Note also in the image above the narrow belt of the Cottonwood/Willow Gallery Forest, with mesquite trees the dominant plant in the extensive bosque flanking it here. This is a good aerial view of characteristic juxtapositions of these two types of forest. Below: the San Pedro running in flood through gallery forest near the old Taylor Ranch, near the Hot Springs Canyon confluence. This photo was taken just downstream from there, looking upstream in August of 1998.
In more "normal" times -- like the moment this image captures during the intense winter-rain drought of January 2006 -- the River at this point is only one of dead leaves:
Below: Soza Canyon Wash, running down out of Mica Mountain (to the west, in center background); a very wide wash in its lower reaches, this was viewed from lower Soza Mesa looking toward the mid-afternoon sun of December 2001: (click on image below to enlarge) Below: view of the SP floodplain from Harold & Mignon Elliott's place on the right-bank terrace, looking toward buildings at El Potrero north of Milepost 26. (Beneath the gallery forest in middle background, the stream is again perennial at this location.) (Oct.2002) (click on image below to enlarge) At Milepost 31, the cottonwood/willow gallery forest stands out in another stretch of perennial stream, shown in April 2005 below, first looking upstream and then (at right), looking across: (click on each image below to enlarge) Between Milepost 31 and 32, the road runs past the Redington Narrows, shown at right below when the river was running in flood in August 1998. (the photo at left was taken on the same day near the location shown above.) (click on the right-hand image below to enlarge it.) Below,
this map shows the Narrows near dead center, with a Gaging Station marked as located
in it. The two arms of the Narrows, pointed toward one another in a northeast-southwest
orientation, are clearly visible here. Below are two more comprehensive views of the Redington Narrows photographed from further upstream in April 2005, when the riverbed was dry at this point (click on each image below to enlarge it.): From the vantage point above, the effects of the 1983 and 1993 floods on the river floodplain can be seen. Beyond the first terrace above the floodplain (which is visible in the near foreground of each image), the floodplain was almost entirely scoured of vegetation here, including the whole expanse from left to right upstream from the bottleneck of the Narrows. As you can clearly see, a band of hard reddish-gray rock straddles the river at this point. This is a Lower Miocene deposit of sedimentary rock called the San Manuel Formation (see Geology of Hot Springs Canyon for more details on this Formation); at this particular location it is distinguished as the "Soza Canyon facies", and contains a high frequency of volcanic clasts in its tilted sediments, as can be seen below: at left, a broad view of the strata; at right, a closer view of its components (click on each image below to enlarge it.): Further downstream, near Milepost 32, right at the Cochise County-Pima County line, the old, high terrace above the River has produced a remarkable vegetation: (click on the image below to enlarge it.) On this high and dry terrace, the dominant vegetation (aside from the grasses) all the way to the terrace's cliff edge is Jumping Cholla. For more details, see Cacti and/or scroll down to Cholla. At Redington (see map below), two large wash corridors meet the San Pedro -- Buehmann Canyon running from the Catalinas and Redfield Canyon from the Galiluros. These both form deep canyons in their higher reaches. The beginning of the Redington Road (which crosses Redington Pass in the Rincon-Catalina Complex to the west and connects with the Tanque Verde Road in Tucson) is visible in the bottom left-central portion of the image.
The Bingham Cienega Nature Preserve, located in this wildlife corridor, contains a spring-fed marsh which supports distinctive riparian pllant communities and serves as an important oasis for migratory birds. The San Pedro floodplain begins to broaden downstream from the Pima County line. North of Redington, below, looking toward the northwest from a terrace near the Davis Ranch, location of some major archaeological sites from the Hohokam Classic period. Some of these sites show cultural connections with the Hopi and other Puebloan peoples far to the north.
Below, the San Pedro runs from right to left, with the northern Galiuro Mountains in the background. As usual, substantial, high terraces flank the floodplain at many points along this part of the river.(December 2002) (Click on the image to enlarge it.) Some major archaeological sites of the Classic Period of the Hohokam culture (A.D. 1200-1450) are found in this part of the valley. (For more details, see the article by Jeffrey Clark & Patrick Lyons.) North of Redington, at the Redington Bridge, we enter the Lower San Pedro Watershed (see Map). Below: further north of Redington, looking westward at the broad expanse of lower Alder Wash (which drains the north-facing slopes from the top of Mount Lemmon). The wash is running down toward the viewer, from its source in the central Catalinas (note the big stand of very old Saguaros located on the terrace at far right): (click on image below to enlarge) On the map below, see Alder Wash running down from the Catalina Mountains. Directly across from it lies a much deeper wash, in Kielberg Canyon, which drops to the River from the closer slopes of the Galiuros. Together the two washes form a continuous wildlife corridor connecting the Catalinas and the northern Galiuros.
Below left : Kielberg Canyon viewed from Alder Wash, looking East; China Peak of the Galiuros rises in the background (July 2002): below right: Kielberg Wash looking upstream from High Mesa: (click on each image to enlarge it.) This wash (above) runs past Pliocene lakebed-deposit cliffs (see "Quiburis Basin Geology") which are visible on both sides of the Canyon, to its confluence with the San Pedro, where the floodplain is very broad and sandy (below, looking eastward toward the outflow of Kielberg Wash):
Further downstream, near Whitlock Wash (and near San Manuel), the waters of the San Pedro surface again:
While at this time our tour will travel no further in the Lower San Pedro Valley (though we take note of the sighting of a pair of Mexican Spotted Owls in Arivaipa Canyon, reported in The Nature Conservancy Newsletter June 2007.) At present, this overview may suffice to give newcomers an initial sense of the diverse values contained in this stretch of southeastern Arizona. We do not pretend to know what will happen along the river in the future, but everyone should be concerned about the prospects, and it's important that those who care try to make a difference. For those willing to consider alternatives to the global-urbanization of the world, for example, see this link -- an article in the Scientific American of June 2007: Rewilding America. (Here be warned: it's a big file, more than a megabyte -- Luddites of the world, to pursue these ideas you will definitely want to obtain DSL or its equivalent.) | ||||||
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